When house shopping, there are some qualities I can look past and some non-negotiables. Weird paint, light fixtures, even a bathroom that needs a gut job doesn’t typically scare us away. In our current home (House #4), the footprint of the kitchen was our non-negotiable based on our budget and the cost of renovating an entire kitchen.
We did not want to spend money knocking out walls and rearranging the entire floor plan, however, we were willing to put in the work to paint cabinets and down the road replace the countertops, appliances, etc..
After renovating our previous home, we knew we could create the light and bright kitchen we desired, all we needed was a functional layout with quality cabinets.
Below is our kitchen when we first moved in. The previous owners installed custom cabinets and granite counters (in the early 90’s). The lovely vine wallpaper and outdated light fixtures didn’t scare us away, we had a vision!
We had some trial and error from painting the kitchen cabinets in House # 3 and went a different direction with technique and products this time around. I am so happy we decided to try something new because the outcome was a more finished look with surprisingly less time.
House # 3
- Light sanding
- Paint sprayer
- Regular primer
- Latex paint on top
- Gel stain on bottom
- Multiple coats of poly
House # 4
- No sanding
- Brush & roller
- Bonding primer
- Enamel paint (tinted)
- No topcoat needed
Below is step by step process for painting kitchen cabinets without sanding!
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Product list – Purchased from Amazon and Lowe’s
- Valspar Bonding Primer
- Valspar Cabinet & Furniture Enamel (I used Semi-gloss)
- Wood Filler
- Painter’s Pyramids
- Painter’s Tape
- Trim Paint Brush (2″)
- Foam Brushes (for touch ups)
- Foam Roller (4″)
- Painting Trays
- Plastic Grocery Bags
- Painting Tarp (or old blankets)
- Screw Driver or Drill
- Your favorite playlist (or audio book)
Step 1: Prep Work
I am not going to lie…this is my LEAST favorite part. The same with any painting project, the preparation to get ready can sometimes take longer than the actual painting.
PREP = Prevent Repeating, Execute Precaution (OK, I’m a dork)
- Remove all of the cabinet/drawer fronts and hardware. Put screws and hardware in a tupperware container or storage bag so you do not lose any pieces.
- Make sure to label all of the cabinet doors so you know where to hang them when you are finished. I numbered them starting from the left and wrote the # in the hole for the hinges since you will not be painting this area and it is covered by the hinge. Place a piece of tape on the back of the drawer to write the number, this will be covered when you reattach the drawer fronts.
Tip: I painted our kitchen in two phases. First the top cabinets, and once they were complete and rehung, I started on the bottoms. I chose to do this because of limited floor space for painting. It was also nice to have some resemblance of normalcy during the project.
- CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. I use TSP cleaner for all of my furniture and cabinet painting projects. It gets off all of the grime and grease, which builds up over the years, especially in a kitchen.
- Mix the TSP with water (follow ratio directions) in a spray bottle and use this mixture with a textured rag to deep clean all the cabinet doors and base cabinet frames.
- Use painters tape to tape off any areas you will not be painting. I chose not to paint the inside of my cabinets or the shelves so I used the tape to create the barrier between the frame of the base cabinet and the inside shelving. Other areas to tape or cover:
- Refrigerator
- Range hood or Microwave
- Floor – if you are painting your toe kicks
- Wall next to the end cabinets
- If your new pulls are a different measurement you will need to putty and then sand the old holes before priming. I prefer this wood putty which is stainable. I use it for a lot of my furniture painting. Minwax also has a lot of good options that come pre-stained or are stainable.
- Once the filler has dried, lightly sand and then wipe off any residue before priming. You may have to repeat process for larger repairs.
Step 2: Prime Time!
Yes! You made it past the dreaded prep work. Now the fun begins where you actually start to see the transformation!
The priming step is important to ensure the paint sticks to your cabinets and avoid chipping or scratching. Kitchen cabinets take a lot of wear and tear, so creating this bonding primer layer will ensure your paint remains intact for years of use.
I always start on the backs of the cabinets (2 coats) before flipping over to the front. This way any dents or imperfections which may occur from the painting pyramids will be on the inside of the cabinet.
- First use a paint brush to go around the border, this helps push the paint into any cracks or indents.
- Then take the foam roller and roll the primer on the flat middle panel and the outside frame. I also roll over the side edges of the cabinet face, making sure to smooth out any drips or excess.
- After the first coat, wait the recommended time before repeating a second coat. I only needed two coats. If you have a darker wood that still shows through after two coats, repeat another coat until the cabinet is a solid white.
- For the cabinet frames, use the paint brush for all of the inside frame detail, you can use the roller for the ends of the cabinets and the outfacing frames (this went a lot faster than using a brush for all of the frame).
- Once the second coat is dry, flip the cabinet doors over and repeat on the other side. Be mindful of the cabinet edges, so the paint is not too heavy. You may want to do one pass while on the backs of the cabinets, and the other coat while painting the face of the cabinets.
Tip: I purchased the foam brushes to help smooth out any brush or roller marks after each coat.
Tip: Take this time to inspect all of the cabinets and make sure there are not any drips or dust anywhere. This is the time to make corrections, before painting. If you find a drip mark or blemish, smooth out with fine sandpaper. You may have to touch up the primer in this area if disturbed.
IMPORTANT: Wait until the primer is completely dry before painting.
Step 3: Home Stretch!
Are you getting excited yet? Unlike the primer, the finish on the paint is glossier and it will start to look more like the finished product. When I painted the lower cabinets the grey color, it was exciting to see how they contrasted with the white primer. I may have held them up against the base frames about a dozen times to sneak a peek…
- To paint the cabinets, follow the same steps as priming.
- Use the paintbrush around the framing of the cabinets/drawers and the roller on the flat surfaces, back to front.
- Once all coats are complete, carefully remove the tape from frames.
- You can avoid globs and drips by using thinner coats.
- This paint is self leveling, so brush marks were not as much an issue in this project (use the foam brush as needed).
- Wait to dry and repeat for 2 – 3 coats depending on your coverage.
IMPORTANT: Wait for the paint to completely dry before attempting to hang or add hardware.
This is difficult to do, you are so excited to get everything hung back up! The longer you wait for the paint to cure the better. We waited 24 hours and haven’t had any issues with sticking or peeling, but we also live in Colorado and have a very dry climate so drying time is typically shorter.
Finishing Up
When you are ready to hang your doors back up, follow your numbering system. Attach the hinges first to the cabinet doors and then to the frame. If you have three hinges per door, it is easier to attach the middle hinge first, especially if you don’t have someone to hold them.
New Hardware?
I recommend getting a cabinet hardware template. It is handy for marking where you need to drill based on the measurement of your pulls. Drill the new holes and then attach your beautiful hardware. Measurements are always from the center of the pull holes, not the actual length of the pull.
We got our pulls (40 of them!) HERE for a great price. I knew I wanted the gold/brass color to warm up the white and grey cabinets.
Toe Kicks
If you have wood toe kicks, I would recommend painting these to match the bottom cabinets, otherwise they stand out against your new clean look. Ours were already removed from replacing the floors, so we ended up installing matching trim from the rest of the house and painting to match the lower cabinets.
Finished Product!
I am so happy with the results, it truly changed our entire house! After almost a year, I can say our cabinets have held up wonderfully, no chipping or touchups needed. I will update this post again to report on any changes.
Before and After of our kitchen transformation:
Before 
After
Some of our added features…
- New refrigerator
- Island paneling
- Above cabinet lighting
- New island lights
- New outlet covers
- New Flooring (We installed throughout our main floor) AquaGuard: water-resistant laminate. Color: Rustic Timber
Future updates for our kitchen….
- New Countertops
- Backsplash (with counter tops)
- New stove, range hood & dishwasher
- Extend cabinets to the ceiling with cubbies
- Reconfigure desk area to include a coffee/beverage bar and added pantry storage.
